Introduction
If you are looking to install a zigzag-engineered parquet floor in a herringbone pattern, this basic manual will provide you with fundamental guidelines for the process.
As a bevel-edged engineered parquet block, the V4 Zigzag does not need to undergo any further finishing.
The Zigzag blocks have a universal design consisting of one tongue and 3 grooves. This design allows for them to be arranged in a variety of patterns, though some may require false tongues to guarantee stable installation.
When installing them in a herringbone pattern, the blocks are required to overlap the side and header joints. This pattern does not require the addition of false tongues for proper and stable installation.
Step 1: Preparing for installation
Ensure you have properly prepared the site and subfloor. This includes ensuring the flooring has been fully acclimatized as per the instructions provided in the Hardwood Flooring installation manual.
Step 2: Installing the First Row
Much of the installation of a herringbone-patterned floor hinge on how well you install the first row. Precision is key. Each block must be carefully and correctly positioned and square. Installers should begin from the center point as this will help reduce the problem of movement and having to reposition the blocks. The center point works more effectively and easily as a fixed point from which to work outward. Once the first row is properly installed, it will guide the installation of the rest of the floor. You will need to ensure proper layout and full bonding of the first row before moving on.
Use the following guide to guide the installation of the first row by starting with a square template. This square template can be made using plywood that has been cut to the same size or larger than the length of the blocks you will use. The dimensions of the template should be precise, ensuring the diagonal edges are of equal length. After having correctly positioned and screwed to the subfloor, the template will act as a solid starting point that will ensure the blocks are moved into their appropriate positions without allowing for gaps.
1. Set the direction of the herringbone pattern, which will flow across the length of the room
2. Locate the center of the room and use a plumb line to mark where the center line will be. The peak of the first row will follow this line.
If using the center line to align the square template, then the start of the row will be offset by the depth of the tongue which is about 5mm. For better accuracy, be sure to first identify the room's center line and mark an offset guideline that is 5mm to the right and use this to position your square template.
3. Begin close to the wall in placing the square template. This will allow the offset guide line to bisect the square diagonally from opposite angles. Once you have it properly positioned, screw the template onto the subfloor.
4. Use this template as a guide to the first row, ensuring the apex follows the center line.
5. Loose lay your first row to ensure you are satisfied with the orientation of the layout and placement of your template. Begin by standing on or behind the template and applying the recommended adhesive with a trowel to the area in front of the square.
NB: Ensure you mix up the blocks to achieve a good distribution of the grain, grade, and color variation of your blocks across the finished floor.
6. Following the diagram below, place Block 1, with its tongue against the left-hand side of the template to ensure a leading header that is in alignment with the right-hand edge of the template.
7. Next, place Block 2 with its grooved edge pressing against the header joint of Block 1 and the right-hand side of the square template. The tongue should be facing away.
8. Keep repeating your actions in steps 6 & 7 to place new blocks on the adhesive applied to the bed. Ensure the blocks connect solidly. The leading corner of the herringbone pattern should emerge from over the center line that is 5 mm left of the guideline.
NB: Use a hammer and tapping block to push the blocks tightly against each other and prevent gaps. Be sure to also lift a block now and again to ensure the adhesive has fully covered the surface and will adhere well.
9. Once you have completed the first row to its finishing point, use your hammer and tapping block to make any appropriate adjustments to the layout while the adhesive is still wet. Remove any excess adhesive that has not been covered by blocks.
NB: Also, remove any excess adhesive that emerges from the face of the blocks before it sets. You can use a damp cloth for this. Allow the adhesive to fully dry and this row will not become your fixed starting point template for subsequent rows.
Step 3: Completing the Installation
1. Using the first row as your guide, first loose lay the second row to ensure that the apex of the second row is running parallel to the center line.
2. If satisfied with the layout, begin applying adhesive to the area you will install the second row.
3. Begin at the end wall to install the first half of the second row. When laying that first block(19), ensure its long-grooved edge is pressed against the header joint from the last block(16) on the first row. The groove should connect firmly with the subsequent section’s exposed tongue on the next block of the first row. Keep repeating this process until you complete the first half of the second row.
4. If satisfied with the layout of the first half of the second row, continue with the installation of the second half. Begin the second half from the start wall by placing the long-grooved edge of the new block against the header joint of the last block(27), allowing the grooved header joint to connect with the exposed tongue of the next block(26).
5. Keep repeating this process until you have completed the second row on both sides of the first row. Ensure you cut the blocks to fill in the perimeter of the room while providing an adequate expansion gap that will be covered by molding or skirting.
6. You can install a border by using a plunge saw to trim the blocks and create the required space. The trimmed edges can be machined to create a groove you will use to join the blocks.
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